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Tenugui designed by Sanae Naito, dyed in authentic chusen
Crazy Textiles is a Tokyo-based tenugui studio led by textile artist and educator Sanae Naito. Naito specializes in chusen dyeing and conducts research on textiles and design related to traditional dye techniques. The studio's tenugui are designed and directed by her, and dyed at workshops that practice authentic chusen techniques.
The tenugui has a history arguably as old as Japanese textiles themselves. These long, reusable cotton cloths are used in Japan for carrying lunch boxes, gift wrapping, hand towels, table dressings, headbands, and wall hangings. They are often worn around the head or neck for protection from sun, cold, or dust, and are commonly seen at Japanese festivals as part of traditional attire.
Tenugui became widespread across all classes of Japanese society during the Edo period (1603–1867), when cotton became widely available. As dyeing techniques advanced, colors and designs grew more elaborate, and tenugui were draped over the shoulder or tucked under the collar of a kimono as a fashion accessory. Their utilitarian quality was equally embraced — they served as washcloths, handkerchiefs, shoe liners, headbands, and even tourniquets. Merchants, sumo wrestlers, kabuki actors, and rakugo performers commonly had their own tenugui printed and handed out like business cards. To this day, they are designed as souvenirs to commemorate special events and exchanged as gifts in Japan.
The art of chusen dyeing has many techniques well-suited to creating multicolored patterns and gradients. In one typical process, called sashiwake-zome, artisans use resist paste to dye-proof the fabric and create dye-banks; dye is then poured around the resist paste, producing slight variations from cloth to cloth that are characteristic of hand-dyeing. Both sides of the fabric are dyed thoroughly, and the multicolored blends, blotches, and gradations that emerge are the result of the artisan's hand. Naito is also active in the revitalization of these traditional dye techniques, with a particular focus on chusen.
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